MY FIRST VISIT TO CHIBI - A TRUE STORY.

On May Second 2003, my brother and I made our first trip to the historical site of Chibi, famous for the Battle of the Three Kingdoms period. Our companions were his fianc�e Susan, and her friend Clara, both of whom are Teachers, born and bred in Hong Hu. We met at the bus station at 8 am to discover that we had missed the early bus.

The Museum fort at Chibi town / Village. Chibi is famous for the Battle of the Three Kingdoms.

After lengthy discussion, it was decided that we would take a taxi, and after much arguing with drivers, we found one prepared to charge only 15 yuan to drive us "someplace" where we could intercept the bus. Ten minutes later and having travelled at who knows what speed, we pulled alongside the bus at a little village.

These two photos are of the barge landing on the Hong Hu side of the Yangtze River. The top photo shows one side of the road with its' shops and eateries. Don't let the sanitary appearance of the photo fool you. You would not want to eat there. The bottom photograph is the same site but taken from the barge mid crossing.

The fare for the four of us on the bus was 12 yuan, and this included the barge passage across the river. Now please note! Susan is a Maths teacher. We paid 15 yuan from town to the bus and 12 yuan on the bus to Chibi, ferry crossing included. All up it cost the four of us a total of 27 yuan. That's about $3.50 US. The issue of money will be raised again later.

With the SARS epidemic in full swing, we boarded the bus to discover that it was full of people wearing masks, something which seemed but a minor impediment to their frequent spitting on the floor.

Whilst Susan had reminded us several times to bring masks, she herself forgot, so to stop herself from catching the SARS virus, she held her nose. I know! I Know! But you try and tell her, because we could not convince her of the pointlessness of the exercise.

Once the bus got underway, it took only about 10 minutes to arrive at the barge crossing, where we waited for some considerable time. Once the barge itself arrived and actually got underway, it only took another 10 minutes to arrive at Chibi. From the boat ramp, it was just a matter of walking about 500 metres up a goat track to a little village located on the edge of Chibi.

Coming off the barge at Chibi one walks up the dirt road and turns left just before these shops (top) to follow the goat track to the Museum. (Bottom) This is the end of the Goat track at Chibi. Around the corner to the left of the building on the left side of the photo, is the Museum park entrance and ticket office. If you were to keep walking straight ahead however, you would come to Chibi Proper. Despite shopkeepers attempts to sell brochures for up to 10 yuan each, they do in fact cost only 2 yuan. Admission to the park is 25 yuan per person.

The Chibi 'museum' park is located at the entrance to the village. The ticket booth for entrance to the park was quite impressive considering that it had a sign written in perfect English, something of a rarity in China. Most signs might be classified as being written in Chinglish. The admission price was set at 25 yuan per person, but we noted that there was a big argument underway between the staff and two Chinese women.

Apparently the local newspaper had published an advertisement or an article stating that for this 'May Day' celebration week, admission was at a special price of only 4 yuan per person. The argument continued for about 20 minutes, subsequent to which Susan bartered our entrance price down to only 20 yuan each.

The park is quite large and amongst other things, houses a museum within a very old fort. One can even take a horse ride, although one can't help feel sorry for the horse, given it's size. One in fact does not actually 'ride' the horse. It's more of matter of being 'led' around on it. Definitely a novelty for most Chinese.

The compulsory souvenir stands up near Zhou Yu's Statue

We tried to get Susan onto the horse, but she was absolutely terrified of it, so I went in her place. The owner kept insisting that I hold the reigns with 'both' hands, but every time he looked away I would let one hand go. He decided in the end to teach me a lesson.

Zhou Yu overlooking three Chinese students. Taken in November on my second visit. Other visitors were surprised to learn that it was the foreigner showing the boys around Chibi.

Giving a short 'whoop', he let go of the horse and it bolted. Having ridden stock horses on a cattle property, I reached right down by the horses mouth, pulled the reigns down and the horse stopped.

The man seemed mighty pleased by that. I did my best in sign language to point out that this was just a little horse and that in 'Ao Da Li Ya' they are twice as big.

We wandered around the market stalls up by the statue of Zhou Yu (Jo You), down the long steps to the river and back again, had photos taken with locals and then finally headed off to the fort (museum).

The Museum contained the obligatory souvenir stall, the chance of a 'photo op' dressed up in ancient gowns and battle gear, various room containing artifacts, and two rooms, one of which housed wax figures depicting historical people, and the other contained ceramic statues.

Because we had to catch the bus back to Hong Hu at 1:15pm, it was not possible to see everything to which our entrance fee entitled us. At midday, because I was starving, I offered to shout everyone to lunch in the village, and with that agreed upon, we set off.

On the way however, I was greeted by a Chinese lady who is an English teacher from some place on that side of the river. As we talked, she misheard me when I said that we had come from Hong Hu.

Thinking that I had said Hong Kong, she asked if we would be flying back. As I was clarifying the situation, Susan turned and walked off (she doesn't talk to strangers).

Thinking that the woman had never heard of Hong Hu, Susan later informed me that the reason for the woman's ignorance was that Hong Hu is on the other side of the river. That's definitely Chinese Logic! I did try to point out that if she (Susan) who lives in Hong Hu, could know of Chibi, then it was possible that this lady who lived somewhere on this side of the river could likewise know of Hong Hu. She didn't see the logic.

The Memorial rock painting commemorating Cao Cao's battle as seen from the barge. One descends to it via the steep steps near Zhou Yu's statue. The observation landing can be seen if you look closely. Notice the difference between water levels in these two photographs.

The barge leaves from the northern (Hong Hu) bank of the Yangtze River, about 25 kilometres west of Chibi. Boats constantly arrive with goods to be unloaded at Chibi and one has a good vantage point from which to watch them. Near the Statue of Zhou Yu at Chibi there is a steep flight of steps that lead down to the viewing platform for the Rock Face Memorial. From here you can watch the boats at your leisure.

Zhang Ming Xing a final year Student relives the good old days when no one worried about humane ways to dispose of enemies. These photos were taken in the Museum fort, where one can not only see ancient artifacts and lifelike wax figures, but may dress up in costumes from bygone days.

Within the fort at Chibi there are numerous exhibts, including terra cotta statues and lifelike wax figurines portraying ancient notables.

Wax depictions of ancient figures. There are quite a number of displays. These are enhanced photos as one is not permitted to use flashlight. This little enclave within the museum leads into a number of other rooms and various displays.

Up the goat track you trudge, only to find you have to walk these endurance steps if you want to see the rock painting. These photos are taken from the UP and Down perspectives of the same steps.

Now as I said, I had offered to buy everyone lunch, so we headed off down to the village.

Now you know some people think Miracles never happen, so hear this.

When we arrived in the village Susan decided that the people there were 'strangers' and that 'they could not be trusted'.

Now here is the miracle: I was soooo hungry that I was actually 'begging' to eat in a village restaurant. But 'Oh No', Susan would not hear of it! 'We will take the barge back across the river and eat there' she said.

Never mind that we were going to have to 'pay' to take the barge across the river and then pay again for the bus.

We tried to persuade her of the pointlessness of the exercise, but finally, realising that you can never win over a woman's logic, let alone a Chinese person's logic, we headed off to the river.

Three different camera angles for the same scene - the temple shrine at Chibi. This temple is located some distance from the Museum Park. Left - Watchtower / Centre - Shrine proper / Right - Garden Gate leading to another shrine.

This is a 1000 year old tree located in the grounds of what once was a famous monastry. All that remains now is one shrine room, a pond, and a small stagnant lake

Halfway through the crossing the ticket lady charges us 20 yuan for the trip.

Remember that it cost only 12 yuan to take the bus and the barge. We considered that a bit steep (but then foreigners are all millionaires), but of course did not immediately know what we had been charged, because Susan just handed over the money and 'then' told us the price.

When we arrived on the other side, Susan decided that the people there looked dangerous and insisted that we neither eat, nor wait for the bus, but that we should look for a taxi.

We were in the middle of nowhere on a goat track, with no idea of which way to go, and with no taxi or rickshaw in sight, and since we could not remain in this little hamlet, we were forced to start walking.

We walked, and walked, and walked, and walked. After half an hour or more, and two failed attempts to get the girls into the odd appearance of the local motorised rickshaws, we finally dug our heels in, and, paying 4 yuan, were taken to the main road leading into Hong Hu.

Top - Xie Qing Chao and Myself (I'm not Chinese) standing in the shrine. Two ladies were off to the right in a side room having lunch and nearly choked on their noodles when they saw me. The bottom shrine is further down the road near the pond with the Zig Zag bridge.

The thrills and spills of that ride were definitely more exciting than any amusement park ride.

My back, which up to that point, felt like it was out, was miraculously cured, while my brother's, which had been OK, was now in need of physiotherapy. I am not just talking about the driver's ability here.

We were really riding on a dirt goat track, with pot holes, rocks, gullies and whatever you can imagine a goat track to be like, except that it was wide enough for a bus to travel on.

It took about 10 minutes to arrive at the main road, at which time Susan informed us of the two things of which she was certain.

The first was that there would be a bus eventually, and the second, that she did not know when there would be a bus. Chinese Logic!

As I was thirsty, I offered to buy us all a drink. The girls however wanted pineapple. This involved waiting while the fruit seller cut and trimmed it, and of course this gave time for the locals to gather around the 'circus freaks'.

Two boys in particular were very cheeky. Pre-arranging it with my brother, I went for a short walk past the crowd, then doubled back, and grab both boys. They got a fright, and the crowd burst out laughing.

When another kid cried out something about the 'Laowai' (foreigners), I screamed out 'Laowai? Laowai? Bu Laowai! Zhong Guo Ren!!! (Foreigner? foreigner? Not foreigner! Chinese!) The townsfolk cracked up laughing.

From the landing at the bottom of the steps one can see this commemoration of Cao Cao's Battle. It's characters however indicate a much later origin. Cao Cao's vessel was certainly grand judging by this replica.

While all this was taking place, Susan began to feel insecure again, and spotting a 'minivan' taxi, hailed it and demanded that we get in.

The price for this ride was to be only 10 yuan back to town. I was, as you can imagine, quite relieved to be traveling in something fast. Note that I did not say modern! Just fast. 

I had virtually been fasting since 7 am, and was relieved to know that I would soon be eating!

Have you ever heard of 'Murphy's law'? Some people don't believe in the supernatural, but I tell you, 'Murphy's Law' is a constant in my life.

When the taxi reached Xin Di (Hong Hu), all we had to do was turn right at the first intersection, follow it for a few blocks, then turn right.

At that point we would have been just a couple of hundred metres from the school and home. We were halfway along that first road when a truck passed us. At that moment a rock hit the windscreen and smashed it.

The Taxi Driver hit the brakes, spun the van around and chased the truck at high speed. We were then of course traveling in the opposite direction to home.

Behind the Watchtower at the Temple, there lies a secluded monastic room, corridor and garden complex whose walls are adorned with ancient prayers engraved upon slates.

We quickly caught up to the truck and the taxi driver forced him to a stop. We watched in awe as the two drivers argued, with the taxi driver demanding compensation money for the broken windscreen.

The truckie naturally told him where to go, and proceeded to drive around the taxi. But it didn't end there. The Cabbie jumped back in the taxi and sped after the truckie, forcing him to a stop at the 'T' junction at the end of the road. At that point we decided to do a bolt. Throwing the 10 yuan at the Taxi Driver, we escaped before the altercation escalated.

The road running into town from which we turned right, runs parallel to the river at a distance of about a hundred metres, and continues on past Long Ke Duo (long ker door) supermarket. In the street behind the supermarket and two blocks down, there is a meat and vegetable market.

Since we were so close to the shops, my brother and I decided that we may as well pick up a few things for dinner. Personally I just needed to put something into my stomach.

Almost immediately, a local bus arrived. As my brother and I tried to board it, Susan grabbed us and forced us back onto the road. We had a short argument with her (trying to find out why we couldn't catch the bus), before finally waving the driver to keep going.

It transpired, that neither Susan nor Clara knew where the bus went, and so would not catch it. As I have said, the road into town follows the river. The Long Ke Duo supermarket is one shop back from the corner of the last parallel street before the river.

The old temple at the 1000 year old tree is gone but for this pond and one small shrine.

While we could not be certain, we figured that the two were the same street, and that if the bus did not deviate from this road, we would end up at the supermarket and the vegetable market. If it did deviate, it would have to cross the bridge down by the other markets. Either way, it would not have been a problem!

So here we were back at square one, looking for another bus or taxi, when we spotted a fruit and meat market on the other side of the street. Susan and Clara were both surprised by the find, for they did not know that there was another market in the town.

'Another market?' my brother and I chorused. This was now the fourth market that we had discovered and that, after being in town for only three months. So we ducked into the markets, shocked the socks of the good people there who had never seen a foreigner, shook some hands, took some photos, bought some meat, then left to pay another 5 yuan to go home by Taxi.

In all, it cost 27 yuan to get to Chibi via taxi and bus; 39 yuan to come home via barge crossing, walking, rickshaw, and two cabs. It cost another 80 for our entrance fee, and a few yuan for drinks and pineapple. All up an inexpensive day (for a foreigner). So that was my (our) day at Chibi! I hope you enjoyed the story.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS

Left Top is the levee road at Chibi, with fish drying on the right side. Left Bottom is the roof and balcony section of the Shrine at Chibi. Top Right is the shot of me surprising little children on the way home from Chibi. Bottom Right is a sedan chair in the museum. 14 year old English/Chinese interpreter Zhan Yan is to the right of the chair.

Zhang Ming Xing reliving the glorious deeds of his anscestors. They wanted me to dress up in this type of outfit but I figured that I might look a little out of place. I'd feel more comfortable in a sarong or a kilt. Aye and that's a fact.

Notice the difference between this shot at Chibi and the one presented earlier. Just a different season makes for a more beautiful photograph.

Not the Queen of Sheba but just as regal. An American English Teacher in China during the Summer of 2004.

Visiting American Teachers for Summer Camp in Hong Hu visiting Chibi in July2004

Scenes from Chibi - special memories for the American teachers.

L - R My three boys together. My tall brother and small son. Zhang Ming Xing. Xie Qing Chao. Zhan Yan.

R.P.Bendedek

rpbendedek@hotmail.com

Note:  Because some photographs were lost during transfer to the new Server, some changes have been made to the original file. Updated August 2007

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R.P.BenDedek is the pseudonym of the Author of 'The King's Calendar: The Secret of Qumran' (www.kingscalendar.com), and is a guest columnist at Magic City Morning Star News. An Australian, he currently teaches Conversational English in China. Other Stories can be found at:  http://www.kingscalendar.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?action=viewnews&id=128