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From Magic City Morning Star R.P. BenDedek Part Five in a series of articles about the experiences of an Australian Conversational English Teacher in Rural China. Self published author of 'The King's Calendar:The Secret of Qumran', (a study in Biblical history and chronology), R.P. BenDedek is a pseudonym. THE EVENT Life is full of events, some big, some small, some happy, some sad, and some mysterious. All of these adjectives applied to THIS EVENT on Tuesday May 18th 2004.
I decided to climb the brick wall beside my house to see were the sewage went. Yes! I know! Why would someone want to check out something like that? But you know, sometimes in China you just have to find your amusements where you can. You see as I may or may not have already mentioned, one needs to frequently flush the toilet with detergent, hot water and bleach, if one does not wish to be knocked over by the smell when returning home on a hot day. But in doing this very thing I had been concerned 'for the environment', for, to the best of my knowledge, the run off went directly into the rice paddy next door. But I am digressing! This story revolves around a discovery I made one morning. Down the pathway I saw some people assembling a 'marquee' so I went to have a look. In China if anyone sees anything of interest, they stick their noses in to 'check it out', even if that something turns out to be a foreigner's shopping bag. Having one's bags opened and inspected by shoppers is second nature to me now, although I do sometimes try to leave them guessing.
Like the time some ladies were wondering why I had three bottles of bleach, two bottles of dish washing liquid and a bottle of vinegar in my shopping basket. Using sign language I explained that if you mix all three ingredients together and drink them, it turns your skin white. They were astounded! Hope they didn't try it! So, to continue with my story, bright and early everyone was gathered around to examine and oversee the preparations for the days' event.
At first, although unsure of the marquee's purpose, I assumed that there was to be a wedding. I even tried to ask some of the workers if it was for 'husband and wife'. They had a good laugh at that. Apparently there is a saying in China: 'Marriage is life's tomb'.
As the work progressed, it became not only apparent that there was to be a celebration, but as there was a kitchen being put together at one end of the structure, it was obvious that there were to be meals provided. Work benches were erected, crockery was delivered and various people began to unpack and prepare a variety of foodstuffs. In this photograph you can see the head chef commencing his preparations. Oh how I wished I had had my camera with me a little later when I observed him looking into and stirring the huge pot of rice - cigarette dangling nonchalantly from his mouth.
Behind him in this photograph you can see the men preparing the fish. Although you may turn your nose up when you view the photograph at the end of this article, it was nice for a change to see the length to which they went to ensure an 'hygienic' preparation area.
A teacher later informed me of the nature of the coming event. It was to be the Funeral of a Teacher's father, and it transpired that I knew him. The event lasted 3 full days, with three meals per day being provided for all who who wished to attend, whether they knew the deceased and his family or not. Besides eating, there was plenty to do, what with majiang and card games all the rage. That night or the following morning, the casket was placed in the tent so that everyone could pay their respects. At lunch time on Wednesday, because Zhang Ming Xing refused my request to accompany me, I decided to 'act Chinese', and simply wandered down to take a look. When I arrived, I discovered that the ceremonies associated with the removal of the body were in full swing so I decided to hang around.
Because the public convenience is outside my door, I get to know a lot of people, and this man was the most striking of all. He was tall, aristocratic and congenial, and walked with a cane. I would call him 'grandfather' in Chinese, and on several occasions would give him the 'pork fat' cut from the bulk meat I would buy. Of course, I would always hand it to him with 'both hands', which is the traditional sign of respect. I liked this old dude. I will miss his face.
During the procession, the photograph of the deceased is customarily held by the eldest son, who walks backwards while two friends hold his arms and guide him in his path. They walk a few metres, stop, kneel down, and a collection is taken from relatives of the deceased.
Since it is also a custom in China to welcome, invite and give deferential treatment to 'honoured guests', I remained constantly on guard lest I be laid hold of; and to that end, I carried an Australian $20 note and an offertory pack of cigarettes, thereby generally but not definitely, affording myself a means of escaping the dreaded public humiliation. The gentleman in this photograph put up quite a struggle, but it became apparent that it had nothing to do with money or humiliation, he was answering an important telephone call. It was quite hilarious to watch as they struggled with him to get the phone out of his hands. Eventually he succumbed.
Although the procession did not have far to travel, it took about one hour to get to the front gates of the complex. During this time there were only two mourners who cried, and one was soundly rebuked for doing so. While I shall use here the word 'coffin', it was in fact a modified refrigerator designed specifically for the purpose of making possible, the public display of the deceased. From this next photograph, you can imagine how heavy it was. In all it took eight men to carry. The deceased, while visible, is only marginally so, for in fact from the bridge of the nose to his feet, he is draped in a beautiful red embroidered silk cloth.
I did not accompany the guests on the final leg of the journey to the crematorium, but said my final goodbyes to this dear old man at the front gate. There, awaiting him, was a richly adorned brand new bright blue truck. I have witnessed quite a number of processions through town and I have to say I was impressed with the richness of this one. As the truck headed off it was followed by several bus loads of friends and family and even, (I noticed) by both a police car and an official 'cadre' car. He was it seems, quite a respected person. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS
********************************** Now here is something to Wet your appetite for an upcoming edition entitled: 'Food in China'.
R.P.Bendedek
Note: Due to photos being lost during the server change, this file was updated August 2007 © Copyright 2002-2007 by Magic City Morning Star |
